Done and dusted - 547klms

After a very late night or perhaps an early morning we are awake and ready to go again. The morning is misty but I feel this will change. Our feet seem to think we need to walk again but we have some photo sessions and appointments this morning. Kathleen takes us to the Castletownbere Library which is part of the Cork Council Library, past the cement stairway with pots of colourful flowers placed on each step, the market stalls of high vis gear on display in the centre of the town, colourful businesses with familiar names on the fronts, past the world famous MacCarthys Bar. The library is small but stocked full of books. A photo of the walkers is taken for the next newsletter edition.

We continue the last 5klms to Dunboy Castle ruins but in a car and not on foot. This was the original stronghold of the O’Sullivan family, sitting on an outcrop of Beara Peninsula. Paddy is there waiting for us. He gives us a very informative and comprehensive tour of the ruins. A large coloured metal cutout of Donal Cam O’Sullivan Beare stands erect in the grounds watching over his castle. Paddy is very passionate about the building and preserving it. Fachtna and Michael Ed also join us. We placed our tired booted feet on the plaque standing against the walk, a symbolic show that we had walked the Beara Breifne Way or O’Sullivan March. Something not often completed.

In the rocky edge of the waters near the castle is the O’Sullivan shield, someone has gone to a lot of trouble to scratch it into the rock face. Heaps of slimy seaweed and the remains of a boat lie in the shallow waters. The O’Sullivan flag flaps in the breeze.

Dunboy Castle is set in 39 acres of land near the village of Castletownbere on Beara Peninsula and the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, 12 miles from Kenmare in the south west of Ireland. The castle and Estate was the stronghold of the O’Sullivan Bere clan and built to guard the harbor of Berehaven. This is where they controlled the fishing fleets off the Irish coast and became rich through the collection of taxes for the rights of passage.

The siege of Dunboy in 1602 between Donal Cam O’Sullivan, the O’Sullivan Clan Prince and Elizabeth 1 of England was the most important part of the history of the castle. The Queen’s command was headed by Sir George Carew and along with 5000 soldiers he was sent to suppress the clan. Dunboy Castle was considered impregnable and was only defended by 143 men, it took two weeks, but it was almost destroyed by artillery fire and after hand to hand fighting the remaining 58 survivors were executed in the town square.

The entire site lay in ruins until 1730 when the Puxley family were granted the Dunboy Estate along with other land belonging to the O’Sullivans, they then set about building a mansion close to the Puxley Castle keep and Dunboy Castle was left in ruins.

The construction safety fences surrounding the Puxley Manor site are rusted from being left idle, it is now overrun with vegetation.

At the start of the estate are some large ivy covered stone entrance gates, a symbol of bygone days and now sitting in disrepair. We head to town with Michael and his friend Colm, an elderly man who lives on the estate grounds and who has a great knowledge of its history.

We all have lunch and coffee; probably the last time I will see Michael Ed O’Sullivan. Such a character.

Sue and I head out on our own for a walk around this friendly and colourful fishing village, down to the water’s edge past some bright pink doors and front gates, boat ruins lying in the sludge left from the outgoing tide, the lifeboat station with its orange lifeboat moored in the Harbour and up to the grey stoned Catholic Church sitting majestically at the top of many stairs in the centre of town. Its bell perched in the tower at the rear of the grounds. The magnificent white stone high altar and several colourful glass stained windows adorn the beautiful church. We light our final candles for the boys. Here we meet with Kathleen who is trimming the altar flowers ready for the Sunday Mass. We wander back home, the sign “Thank you for Visiting” tied between the buildings flaps in the wind. Back home to pack for tomorrow and clean our boots as they will not be required until we fly out of Dublin.

Later in the afternoon we drive out of the town to a Buddhist retreat, Dzogchen Beara the largest Tibetan Buddhist retreat in Ireland. Several large red, blue, yellow and white flags flapping at the front entrance. The day is turning cool and clouds forming. The peaceful white retreat sits high on the wild and beautiful Beara Peninsula overlooking the Atlantic Ocean with outstanding views across the waters and sky. The Centre houses a Spiritual Care Centre, café, offers retreats and provides self-catering and hostel accommodation or secluded cottages perched high on the cliff tops for anyone wishing relaxation and stunning views or to just meander the coastal meadows. Meditation retreats mean “No talking, Wi-Fi, books, or phones."  The gardens are full of a variety of colourful flowers and bushes and the paths meander along the cliff top and past the new Temple being built in the style of a Tibetan Monastery and to be officially opened in 2017.

Our last night in this beautiful village and a meal of Fish and Chips and a glass of wine at Cronin’s Hideaway compliments of the owner and local photographer, Anne Marie and her husband. As we relax with lovely company we are joined by Ken, the Pathway Porter. He has driven a distance from another county to give us two bottles of champagne, a congratulations gesture on finishing the walk. This kindness we were not expecting so feel very special. A final Guinness at Twomey’s Bar and say our farewell to Johnnie as we will be leaving early tomorrow morning. Friends we will never forget.  I will be sad to leave.