Thankyou Saint Patrick......

Gourgane Barra to Glengariffe

Another interesting day.

The morning is overcast and cool, the lake is casting shadows across its still waters, when we go down for breakfast, and the room is light and airy with breakfast set out on lace tablecloths and unusual menus.

We are to meet with Dickie O’Sullivan, our driver to the Castle but as he arrives and bundles us into his car he spots a friend in the hotel breakfast room so leaves us sitting in the car for 30 minutes while he catches up. He does not realise that we have a long walk today after he shows us through the castle.  His car is interesting and badly in need of some maintenance, all he wants to do is talk as we are driving, all I want him to do is watch the road and concentrate. He wears no seatbelt and the car petrol light is on, I know the drive will be short as I have driven it before. I have seen Carriganass Castle a couple of times but thought Sue would like to be part of a tour as this is a family Castle.

The Castle is situated at a crossroad and on the banks of the Ouvane River on a rocky outcrop and is nothing but a shell of its original days but very important in family history. The history of the Castle records the fortunes of the O’Sullivan Beare Chieftains from the Desmond Rebellion to the Flight of the Earls in 1603. The Castle was built around 1540 and was located at the Eastern end of the Sullivan Beare Territory with Dunboy Castle being the main castle. Dunboy is situated close to Castletownbere at the end of our walk.  Folk memory says” That the cut stone for the castle was brought from a quarry called Poc an Tairbh (The Bull’s Pocket) by way of a human chain of workers”.  In 1880 a considerable amount of the corner stone was removed from the derelict tower to refurbish Bantry House. Dick has been a great host and tour guide, showed us a very good DVD and answered all our questions. Sue’s question – “What do they make the Castle mortar from? Cowhair, cowhide and cowshit”. We decide that it obviously works. After a cuppa and a rendition on his piano accordion we start back walking at 11.30. I feel he wants company and would have loved us to stay a little longer but we have a long walk ahead before we reach Glengarriffe. We would have liked to visit the Kealkill Standing Stones and Village but time does not permit this to happen. The day is warming up and we must cross into the foothills of the Cahar Mountains.

We take some last photos of the castle, its river and guide and we head off past the picnic area and across the Ouvane River listening to its faint gurgle, take the fork in the narrow road and up some very sharp bends, watching out for local traffic. Onto a dirt track with thistles in the side fields and the purple and blue colour of the hydrangeas in the farm house gardens and pots as we follow the markers to the crest of the steep hill, past the ruined house and we reach Poc an Taibh, the Bull’s Pocket. The sign is nearly covered with ferns and the yellow field stiles start to appear as we head up to the forest plantation and fire break. We can see Bantry Bay and Sugarloaf in the distance; we will probably be climbing these mountains on the last day. The ferns are becoming thicker and signs are nearly nonexistent, no snakes but rabbit holes so we must be extremely careful that we do not break or twist our ankles. The green bracken fern is reaching our waists – are we on the correct track or are we lost, our map says we are a “little off track” so back track a way and start again. We are so glad that St Patrick had walked this track before us and rid it of snakes.

The yellow arrows start to appear on the rocks, are they the real thing or someone’s idea of a practical joke but we must take them at face value and follow them. The day is getting warmer with some clouds in the sky; we do not need rain when walking on the mountain. We have some black faced sheep for company but they move quickly away when they see up approaching. We are finally out of the ferns and now see the signs taking us down the uneven and grassy track through the bog to our ankles and overgrown tracks with brambles reaching across in front of us catching our clothes as we push through, this is a track that has not been walked upon for some time. They are badly in need of some maintenance. The track is covered in Spagnum Moss and the Common Butter Worth plant found in the bog and high areas. The golden yellow Bog Asphodel swaying in the breeze.
We drop down out of the forest and bogs onto a graveled road, such a contrast to the last couple of hours but still a distance to go but time for a break and off with the shoes. The crossroads at St Joseph’s Coomhola Church loom and we take a small detour to have a look at the school and church perched on the hill with its large white statue perched even higher on the hill. We pass the Priest’s Leap area and the sea mist coast comes into view. The drizzly rain is coming across the rocky fields towards us so I hope it holds until we reach the town.

We are now walking along the very busy Coastal road down towards the junction to the Beara Peninsula, Glengarriff signs start to appear. We walk in single file on the yellow line as we pass Garinish Island situated in the sheltered Glengarriff Harbour in Bantry Bay. We are now walking on the Beara Peninsula.  We pass the large and strange pink Eccles Hotel with its attics and chimneys on the top and we both wish we had booked a room here. Past the large O’Sullivan memorial rock, the pink Garda house and the colourful shops are in view. It is a winding village at the crossroads to several areas and islands, a natural deep Harbour of Bantry Bay; it is high season and full of tourists. We are staying at Casey’s Hotel in the centre of town, I have stayed there before so familiar with the establishment. The room is large and airy and overlooks the main road. Even though it is a hotel we are booked in as a B & B room and €55 per person for a twin room. It is advisable to book ahead.

Beside the hotel is a Quills Tourist Shop, an old house covered in Ivy which houses a large array of tourist items, this is our last chance to buy any presents but we still have a couple of days to carry back packs so must be mindful of what we purchase and the size.  There are some lovely little shops in the street with locally made jewelry which take our eye. For such a small village there are a large number of businesses crammed into the small area. The local church sits perched at the corner of the crossroads and is surrounded by graves and a large number are O’Sullivan and other family names. The rain has come across the hills and settled on the village so time to head home and a nice warm bed.

Today we walked 31.5klms.