Walking along the Shannon River

Clonfert to Portumna  

Today we will be walking along the Shannon River where O’Sullivan crossed it when it was flooded.

A lovely morning awaits us and into breakfast. We have started eating a little more for breakfasts now we know how long we can last until the hunger pains start again. We always carry some fruit and muesli bars and this is usually enough each day.

 Maura drops us to Eyescourt so we have 23.4 klms to walk, the day is starting to warm up and it is also the last day before a rest day – it has been a long 6 days walking. We get our bearings and head off past some interesting little houses that jut out onto the footpath with the footpath jutting out also to cater for the house. Are they river houses?  We are not far from the Shannon and on the Hymany Way; we head to the fields and lanes.  Black and white Friesian cows dot the green fields, peat smoke rises from the chimneys of the thatched roofed houses, Alsatian dogs guard the gates of the farm yards, cut hay lies in rows and truckloads of peat rumble past us ready for delivery.     

The signs to the Shannon River start to appear, it is a river that reminds me of the Nile, wide and no edges with reeds growing along the banks. Red wild poppies sway in the breeze.  As we approach the river there are sheep penned ready for market, we clamber over the green field stiles and onto the grassed Hymany Way. The day is warming up. The mowed pathway meanders alongside the river, the sheep keeping us company, not letting us pass but not getting off the path to let us pass. They are such dumb critters. Cruise boats float casually up the river waving as they pass, fisherman stand idly waiting for a tug on their lines. The path has changed and the grass has become long, unkempt and covered in sheep “poo” but you just have to ignore it and keep trudging along in it. Our shoes will wash at the end. Some people would say it adds character.  We finally clear the sheep as we have to climb over a stile and they head down into the edge of the water to get away from us. We are now at the Shannon Crossing and reading the sign to the memory of our ancestor makes us realise just what they lived through to rid themselves of the British soldiers.  

When O’Sullivan reached the flooded Shannon Crossing, there was no boat to be found. O’Sullivan decided to kill his horses which he ate and used the skins of the horses to make currachs. Two currachs were made. One by the Beara men which was long and the second by the Connaught men which was a little tubby craft. The Connaught boat sank on its first crossing. O’Sullivan got most of his followers across but was attacked by MacEgan from the Redwood Castle on the Tipperary side and lost some of his followers who were drowned in the crossing.   

The pathway or man-made levee has now become a little interesting with very long weedy grass so the walkway cannot be seen and a lot of guessing, a drop on one side into the marshy section of the river and more marshy land on the other side. It does not worry the sheep, making a mess and leaving large holes from their hoofs. Some lovely yellow Iris grows on the edges of the water. We are now leaving the Shannon Way and onto the pathway to lead us beside the Harbour where the watercraft are all moored, onto the Ormond Way and into the town area. Directions to the B & B and of course Mary is a local identity, I located her on a Facebook site, so I was a little concerned about what I had booked. No need to worry. We are given a small Cancer donation and the first of a few donations between the Harbour and the bed. The generosity of complete strangers astounds me. 

The main street of this Harbour town is neat, clean and very colourful with hanging baskets of petunias and other flowers on the sidewalk. These hanging baskets and their upkeep are the responsibility of Mary. Past the big cathedral and across the road is Oaklodge B & B, we have been expected as the news that the walkers had arrived in town had filtered through to the residents and the shop owners – the country grapevine at its best. The house is separate from the main house and fully equipped to a very high standard, close to restaurants and hotels as well as several very interesting historical places. Tomorrow is a rest day so the boots are off as soon as we reach the front door. We have been given a bright room at the back of the house as we will need to have a decent rest, our laundry is taken from us and we do not see it again until the evening before we leave. I am sure this is not part of the B & B experience but will not argue, one less thing to concern ourselves about tomorrow. The bed for the night is €40 per person for a twin room.

We have walked 237.8 klms to date.