----- It’s a Long Way to Tipperary ------

Upperchurch to Tipperary 

 

Up at 6.30 for a 7am start. Philip has decided he is cooking bacon and eggs but we stick with cereal. I take a painkiller tablet, wrap my ankle and keep going; I must get through the pain barrier. No rain and only 14 degrees, freezing cold and strong wind so today should be easy walking.

We begin the day’s walk at a small village some 10klms from Upperchurch and past Milestone.  Onto the country roads we trudge past more rows of standing stones and fields of purple heather in flower up the hillsides matching the mauve bales of hay piled in bundles in the farmer’s fields. We pass some memorials to men killed in the 1916 Irish clash and past the Hollyford Roman Catholic Church. We are now walking on the Multeen Way and onto Cappawhite and the Motte in Donohill. The weatherman predicts rain after lunch so if we are lucky we should stay dry for most of the way. We appear to be walking along the top of a mountain ridge, white Fox Glove flapping in the breeze. We are unable to walk on O’Sullivan’s Way as the path was closed but we stay as close to the walk as possible. My foot is really sore and aching so a stop to strap it again. Rest days ahead so a chance to put it up.

 A short break in the colourful village of Cappawhite, time for a coffee and feet up and we walk out along Tipperary Road past the derelict Ryan Pub. Church bells are ringing calling the faithful to Sunday Mass: Sue and I light some candles for the four boys.

We decide that we want to visit the Motte and it looms high on a hilltop, it is off the walking track so for the next section we use Philip’s “Four Wheeled Horse”. This Irish walk is not all about walking all day, every day. We are in Ireland to also enjoy ourselves and be a tourist. Access to the top of the hill is across the farmer’s fields, Beverley and I have just clambered over the fence and stile and into the fields when she nearly runs over me yelling “the bull, the bull”. I quickly look around for the creature and standing in the corner of the field eyeing off his black and white ladies in the adjoining field is the large black bull. He spots us but not sure if we are as interesting as his girls but we decide not to take a chance. Back over the field stile and we must find another way to access and climb. 

Around the other side of the hill and a short walk up the farmer’s driveway and we have access to the top of the hill. Looks easy or so I think. We climb up the side through some thorny shrubs, avoiding the holes from the cattle hoofs and rabbit holes but using them to place our feet in, grabbing tuffs of grass but managing not to grab the prickly tuffs. There is a strong wind blowing. There is a heavy stone holy statue standing erect on the top, not sure of the significance and who put it there. This is O’Dwyer land. The view across the fields and the graveyard is worth the exhausting climb.

The Motte was a Norman Fortress build around the 1200’s, O’Sullivan Beare attacked Donohill in  O'Dwyer's country in 1602, where they raided the Earl of Ormonde's foodstore. On the 4^th day of their Walk north O’Sullivan Beare and his starving followers attacked the Motte in Donohill,desperate for food. The O’Dwyers defended their stronghold, which was a milling centre for the surrounding area. However O’Sullivan Beare’s forces stormed the castle and……”whatever prepared food there was there, the first who entered devoured forthwith. The rest set themselves to feed on the meal, beans and barley grains like the cattle…”

“The Catholic History of Ireland – written by Phillip O’Sullivan in Spain 1692

We trudge back down the hill and across the road to St James Well, a well that would have been there when O’Sullivan brought his people to the area – no tourist signs then showing everyone that it is there. The well has been modernized with a circular brick cover over the steps leading into the well and a fence running around the perimeter of the well and a gate at the beginning of the track.

After we leave the well we wander up the graveled pathway to the graveyard, searching for some family graves – O’Dwyer, Ryan, O’Brien, but no O’Sullivans. Rusted crosses, chunks of stone peeping out of the uneven rocky ground, chapel ruins at the top of the graveyard, all overlooking the valley below. So peaceful.

We continue on our way to Tipperary. We are now on a very busy road, just outside the town so we decide for our own safety to finish today in the car.

Our accommodation for the next two days is a family run B & B and of course, Sylvia, the owner knows we have arrived before we even reach the house. Our main luggage has also arrived and in our rooms waiting for us – such a lovely sight as it means clean clothes that we haven’t worn for the last week. The house is close to the centre of the older part of Tipperary and our rooms are small but very comfortable. The laundry is close so we can catch up on washing before we repack.  

We still have most of the afternoon before Philip and Beverley leave us and drive back to French Park, friends we have only known for a few weeks but friends for life, we drive up to Mount Russell but only a quick visit as rain clouds are forming. My foot and ankle are starting to ache so best to remove the boots and some ice on the sore section.

We have walked over 320 klms, walked for 15 days and had 2 rest days. The Cancer Donation site has reached over $9800, so a good reason for a celebration. Before tea we wander through the town of Tipperary and I am a little disappointed in what I see. The area where we are staying appears to be the main shopping area and looks a little “down and out”. We wander through the cemetery of the old St Mary’s Church of Ireland but as it is not open the entry will wait until tomorrow. We didn’t go far as it is raining, very windy and cold and we are exhausted so decide on an Italian restaurant and a pizza at 4.30pm. Home to bed.